Pants are the worst.

Objectively there are things that are worse than pants but not right now. Let me walk you all through what happened.

I'm making a pair of "sailor's pants" for Tony. I think in the market scenes they are worn by dudes who are not sailors, but I'm going to refer to them as such for ease.

I bought a pair of PJ pants to rip the crotch shape off of. It was subtle. Then I realized I could probably take my husband's Venetian hose pattern and go from there and lengthen the leg. Tony is long waisted compared to my husband as I learned after mock up 1, so I added 4" to the top of the pants and made another mock up. Once the pants were the proper length, we were able to determine they were not giving him room in the butt. Like nuclear wedgie levels. 

I had this crotch curve tool I had never used and had no idea how to use, and I tried to figure it out but I don't think I managed it. So I made another mock up and we followed the crotch of his shorts, and it became less of a nuclear wedgie. I am not a connoisseur of butts, but I would say that his butt is low and prominent (and his partner agrees). I asked my husband if his Venetian hose ever rode up his but and he said they did not. And then I realized the problems - my husband has a high flat butt (and if he ever happens across this I am sorry I am talking about your butt). My husband's Venetian's also had a flat back, because they had enough gather that the butt seam wasn't at risk of blowing out. Looking at later Venetian patterns (Burguen) the front and the back are essentially the same curved shape at the crotch so I curved both. 

It's difficult to see but there's the original line (not the brown line, but the paper outline between the brown line and edge of the pattern) and the paper I added on. I think the fix is to take more out of the butt. 

Drawstring channel was sewn for ease of checking fit. Final will be gathered into waistband. 

DO NOT LIKE SEAM UP BUTT 

We were happy enough with the mock ups (passed the squat test), and ate dinner and Tony and Stacy then boogied home and I started looking at the pictures I had taken again and I realized I was SUPER unhappy with the wedgie and I was talking with Francis about how to fix it. One of the things I realize I hate about pants is that to make room for something (butt) you have to take things away and it blows my little mind. I was trying to work and see what other people had done and my husband kept gat catting me (picking up the cat, holding her like a gatling gun, and making gun noises) and I had to put it in Engineering terms so he'd get it and be like "look dude, these pants are a p0. Back off right now." Gat cat did still make me laugh! 

The wambuis mock up went ok, though. I had v.1 and then I had v2 and it was more or less done. "WTF is a wambuis?" you ask. Basically a piece of clothing for boys or men which had a skirt, or no skirt, and long sleeves or short sleeves or no sleeves. Everything's a doublet except when it isn't. I modified a previous pattern he had because of time constraints, made it a wrap vest, and added a collar. Collars are up there on my list with pants. 

I'm aiming to have this all finished by April 1 so I can finish my WCCS class and my kirtle and rework my own dress, which might be the cruelest April fool's trick I have ever played on myself. I believe in the power of coffee, blowing off all commitments, and not cleaning the house. Better stop blogging and get to work!